Roaming in Rome

Today we took the underground train, called the Metro, to Vatican City. St. Peter's Square maybe the biggest outdoor space I've ever been to. Its grandness serves two purposes. First, it's intimidating to a new comer. This is important symbology. Big means important, and wealthy. It's a great home field advantage. But St. Peter's also hosts many outdoor masses and even this space is not big enough for the crowds that want to come.

The scope of the basilica is equally large. This is hardcore church! The line moved quickly, and after passing through the metal detectors, we first went to the tombs of the Popes.

Next to each casket was a small sign telling you who this was, when he was Pope and a little about him. At the tomb of John Paul II, there was an area set aside for those who wanted to pray. After a turn to the left, we could see into the area where it is believed Saint Peter is buried. The area was closed to us, but we could see ornate decorations.

We went up a flight of stairs and found ourselves inside the basilica near the baldachin. I know I'm telling you over and over how big things are, and how impressive they are, but I'm running out of different words to express it. St. Peter's basilica is a very large space with many small areas where services are performed, yet they don't interfere with each other. You can't hear one service from another. It's that big. It's also almost 100% covered in marble. I'm not sure how long we were in there, but just walking around once takes some real time.

The final part of today's tour I did on my own. Jet lag has kicked in, and My Lovely Wife has become a zombie. I left her in the basilica and climbed the dome of St. Peter's. This is the only part that has an admission fee. You can pay a little and climb over 500 stairs, or pay more and climb 300 stairs. I paid the high price and took the elevator to the base of the dome. At this point you are inside the basilica looking down. The rest of this hike you will be between the inner and outer walls of the dome until you get to the top.

The stairs are narrow, sometimes very steep, and there are almost no places to stop and rest. Since there are others behind you, one feels compelled to continue. I was wearing blue jeans and beginning to work up a sweat. Just when you think there couldn't possibly be any more stairs... there's more stairs. But eventually, you have your reward. You are standing on the top of the dome, with a commanding view of Rome.

Well, if you're going to do the hike, you need to stay a while. I blasted away with my camera and was probably up there a good hour. Then, it was the hike down, which appears to be the same combination of stairs, but are a different set. You do not run into people coming up. When you get back to the base of the dome, you are on the roof of the basilica. There is a water closet, a gift shop, a post box, and a stand selling ice creams.

I used the water closet mostly so I could say I have. (How many people do you know who have had a pee on top of St. Peter's?) Then I bought a postcard and stamp, borrowed a pen from a nun and wrote a note to my mother, then posted it right there on the roof. My mother never wants much, but she has asked me to send her postcards. Getting one from the roof of St. Peter's had an extra bit more oomph than I knew when I sent it. The mail posted from St. Peter's is considered official business of Vatican City, and is carried to the country it is addressed to in a diplomatic pouch. So the stamp on the postcard essentially said my mother was receiving official Vatican business. That's a cool souvenir!

Before leaving the roof, I wandered to the front of St. Peter's. You've seen the statues that line the top of the facade of the building. I was seeing the back of those statues. The surprise was that they are protected by an electric fence! Who would have known the Holy See would use such a dangerous barrier?

After climbing down, I found My Lovely Zombie Wife and took her to a restaurant. Then we took the Metro back to our hotel. It was a very fruitful day.